you have to put the ceramic paints on with a good wet coat or it drys flat -that's ok I guess if that's what you are after but I like it shiney	we hang parts on bungee cords to dry using large reuseable zip ties, these are dry already obviously	you must mask off the crank pulley where it will contact the oil seal, you may also mask off the grooves where your belts rub	You don't see these in there often do you?
the car came with this rebuilt head	n/a valves	old bolts were used at least 2 times, they have been stretched too many times to torque them down, don't take chances with old head bolts		some previous owner had ported the exhaust ports on this rebuilt head
necessary tools for any engine rebuild	Inexpensive filter & oil to run the motor after assembly for a few miles then dump that oil & filter. We do it to flush out the assembly lube.	when we change that initial oil & filter that ran for only a few miles, this is when we will retorque the head bolts and put in Mobil1 oil & filter.	a wire wheel on bench grinder shines up cast aluminum parts	alternator housings were media blasted

Sideways Engine Mounting  <-  click for details

Flexplate mount/ring in crank install  <-  click for details

5/16/6

Today I cleaned and relubed the Distributor.  You can see details of that here:  Distributor

5/20/6

motor back in

5/29/6

what happened?  it went backwards.......    

You see, the car came with that rebuilt head and it turned out to be J U N K.  It was all fine, was just about to put in the coolant and clamp on the turbo cartridge.  First thing we usually do as soon as we can is test the compression.  At this point the motor had only been rolled over by hand and the oil hadn't yet pumped up.  Starting in the 1st hole, put in the hose, attached the gauge, roll over the motor -and nothing. hummmm ok something isn't right with that, moving on to the 2nd hole, roll it over.... great it's showing just almost 150.  This isn't happening is it?  After some fancy words were spoke aloud we pulled off the rocker assembly.  I removed the jet valves and they all looked normal.  Put the hose back into #2 and attached air pressure and listened..... sounds ok, #3 sounds.  Rolled the motor over to #1 tdc and tried #4 and it was about the same sound as #2 & #3.  Put the hoses on #1 and the air blew out the TB inlet.  Damn, a valve isn't seating.  That's what I get for assuming and trusting a part that came from someone I didn't know or know anything about.  This ended up being delay that cost us the car being running today.  

  look, this valve was only touching the seat in that tiny little area.  From looking at the head from the bottom and listening to the seller the car came from we understood this was a rebuilt head.  We knew these weren't turbo exhaust valves but that wasn't the issue, they just used some old valves I suppose and it looks like they were lapped then they must have dropped the valve on the floor or something cause it's sure bent now but it does have the appearance of being lapped.

ok, Keith has no clue what's up now.  He gets to lap in the new valves.  This are the Ivan brand that comes sometimes in a GP with a Marnel head.  Now the turbo valves get installed afterall.  He's playing fire starter here if you move your mouse pointer over either of these two spaces below you'll see him in action.

Here's a before and after look at a lapped valve and seat, dip the valve stem in oil, insert it into the guide, then ( we pulled the valve seals by the way but this would also keep those safe, valve lapping compound allowed to get into the guide and seat without cleaning them out VERY good, will ruin both especially the seals ) and put in a paper towel to keep excess lapping compound from going everywhere.

Below on the left side is the valve, on the right is the seat.  The flat ground finish on the two are where they meet and seal.

You can put in a new or different valve to a head and that's just find but you MUST lap them then keep them in the hole you lapped them in not mix them all up again and assume all is well.

cleaned block deck and head with the Ivan valves

This is the Fel-Pro 8770 headgasket, it's black with gold colored metal cladding and was from a turbo head set dated 1983

FRANKSTEIN turbo

no, it's not huge but it was assembled from pieces of three dead turbos.  I didn't have a rebuild kit in stock so I tried the next best thing.  Yes it will get a real rebuild kit in a matter of days lol but it WORKS!

5-31-6

The car is alive, moves, trys to resemble an automobile

6-2-6

Installed some liquid filled gauges to check the oil and fuel pressures. 

More pictures of this, click HERE 

cold idle/78psi

warm 3000 rpms/86psi

Factory spec for the pump: normal operating temp. @3000rpms is 78psi from this port

This is idle fuel pressure, ~37psi above