Head:
cam
5/19/6
In the beginning, when this head was purchased it was
supposed to be on Kurt's car engine but then the car that was started was halted
and the truck began. That car is still here it's just an empty shell,
literally! The truck project began and when it was time to make a decision
about the cylinder head this head was put on the truck engine. Then 6
months later Kurt wanted a car again...... ok back up to winter '05
-before the truck. Kurt was talking with TimC about a cam he wanted for
his car, it was to have some pretty high lift. Tim said it would have to idle
pretty high and they discussed some more details and after a few more calls and
several weeks... the cam was made. Initially we wanted a fwd blank ( with
the stub on the rear not cut off, that's back when we were talking about using a dsm crank angle sensor on the rear of the head to use a dsm "link" ecu for mpi
and wanted the stub to have a slot cut to fit that sensor but that was all
scrapped ) but that cam was made and the stub got cut off by accident by the cam
grinder. Hummmm, ok he still wanted the fwd cam so Tim had another one
ground and I said I'd take the one that the tail stub was cut off ( meaning it
was now from what most people see when they look at a g54b cam ) so it was now
for rwd and he didn't think anyone would want a cam with that extreme lift.
Now we just pulled the head off the truck motor yesterday and fit the rwd cam (
as now the fwd dsm "link" computer is a dead idea- and probably rightly so ) in
to see what it would do and if there would be any clearance issues etc. To
make the cam work the stock adjuster were not going to cut it. There were
only a few threads holding the locking nut in place and that wasn't going to be
good enough. We already had the lash caps on last fall since some said the
stainless valves would mushroom but still when you see that little stub of a
screw mashing and sliding around on that cap it just doesn't look very good.
The lash caps I got were from a VW supply store -old VWs use 8mm dia. valves
which is also the diameter of a g54b valve. The caps fit great but then we
learned they weren't even necessary but left them on there anyway. VWs use
some different valve train parts..... they have a rocker adjuster screw that has
a pivot foot when they use stainless valves and had been used decades before in
Porsche engines. I've seen some that have a ball foot and some with the
butt end of a screw like our motors have. Several months ago, I was
talking on the telephone to an ebay seller I know that lives in Australia about
getting some more Magna distributors (like we are using in the truck for the mpi
conversion) and we talked about Magna heads and some other gossip and he told me
he had a site started and found a guy that lives in New York to be a broker of
sorts for his parts. He told me the site link and said to look at his
"elephant feet" I said "what?" Well he said what they were and they
were quiet and lasted much longer and didn't need frequent adjusting like the
stock rocker screws. His site name is
http://www.partstuff.com/ and he also had those
rocker feet on ebay but he was asking 200.00 for a set, wow! I searched
google and found elephant feet were used on Porsche engines.... and I found
them, there are some at this link for sale:
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1411
OK, I wanted some of those but like YESTERDAY to get this cam to work better so
it could go on the car. I stopped at a place about 30min. from me -here's
their website:
http://www.buggyworks.org/
I walked in there today, I had never stopped
at this place so I had no idea what was there, "you heard of something called an
Elephants foot?" she pointed over down one row and said, "yes we have
some, there are a few different ones right over there". That just made my
day :) There were three different types, two were the same, BUGWORKS I
think was the brand, one was a little longer than the other but both had an open
hollow foot. I didn't think those would do the trick and there was one
other and it was the solid foot and it was a bit longer and that's exactly what
I needed. Someone had brought them back and they wouldn't fit or something
and she didn't have the package and said she could get
more. That brand was EMPI or something like that. Got those home today and a dial indicator that has more
travel than the one I had because we couldn't get the lift measurement yesterday
but got it tonight. It's right where Kurt asked Tim to make it -the lift
is .343 making that .480 if used with the stock 1.4 ratio rocker arms. The duration
is supposed to be around 300 or a little more. Now don't go jumping to
conclusions about that 569rwhp car in California because we have had these two
cams for at least 8 months and I knew of those Elephant feet way back last
winter so don't think we copied something but I think it's nice to know that
these parts will work too. It's great that someone has already ran a cam
very similar to this one and is using those Elephant feet adjusters. I
don't know how it's all going to work out but from what I mocked up this evening
and checked the setup, there is .25mm clearance under the spring retainer to the
top of the oil seal. This in only on number one intake I haven't checked
the rest but we will. Sure don't want oil being mashed into the crack
around the seal and end up with a smoke machine. I think we'll grind a
tiny bit off the underside of each retainer and test fit every one. That
gives Kurt something to do tomorrow, lol. Here's the pics.
click to enlarge
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left to right: the big cam, TimC low torque cam, and a schneider 284
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left to right: big one, low torque (launch the banshee) and the Schneider 284
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checking the lift
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this dial indicator doesn't have enough range to measure the big cam
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this is the TimC low end torque cam, this was the cam that was in the car in the 261hp dyno run
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HD springs, lash caps and stock adjusters
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not near enough threads holding that lock nut
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bottom is the 1mm os valve with the big cam and the top is a stock head
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Kurts porting, this is the head that was on the truck -pics of it are in that gallery too
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if this part number helps you locate these great!
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foot over a lash cap=good contact
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foot Vs stock adjuster
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this is the lift of the big cam, .343 then we are using stock rockers of 1.4 ratio so x 1.4 = .480 lift
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intake and exhaust are the same
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valve in full open position using lash cap
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foot contact in open position without lash cap, foot has POOR contact with valve, it doesn't contact fully-foot doesn't pivot enough -won't work!
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valve open, no lash cap
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valve in open position using lash cap, full contact with foot
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using foot and lash cap, valve full open. seal needs more clearance
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clearance from spring retainer to seal -a film of oil on the stem would probably get into the seal and you'd have a smoker motor!
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need to shave these down for increased seal clearance
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length foot vs stock
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this is the 1mm OS valve and stock retainer and keepers
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this is more than adequate clearance from the keepers to the lash cap
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this is a stock valve seat ground out to use the 1mm OS valves. remember this is on a Marnel head (NOT the india version)
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valve seals at the outer most limit of the seat
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the valves open just on the + side of one half inch
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valves closed, Kurt smoothed out the area around the spark plug, an unported head with identical valves/seats in his engine gallery
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this is the valve train oiling port, it's at the front of the head on the right side and is just inside that head bolt/stud hole
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Marnel drills the oiling port in one pass, stock "T" casting heads do to unless you have a plug in the side, then they drilled from the top & the side
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5/20/6
We did tear the head down today, ended up grinding about
1/16" off the lower surface of the spring retainers to get some additional
clearance for the seals. Then we checked the cams again for the lift,
reassembled and test fit on a stock engine for valve clearance. YES we
knew all along this would make for an interference head but that's the price to
pay to get that lift. We did however find that the valves will NOT hit the
pistons unless the timing chain jumps or the cam dowel snaps. To check and
see if the valves were going to hit the pistons tops from the high lift under
correct timing we removed the headgasket and placed the head on the deck and
used no fasteners -it was just laying there. Turned the crankshaft by
hand, watched the rockers and then looked, listened and felt the head at the
studs while the crank turned to see if it moved at all. It didn't.
To see if there was any we couldn't feel, we cut out a cardboard circle, placed
that on to number one piston and turned the crank again, pulled the head off and
looked -there appeared to be one tiny mark left but we weren't sure so we added
a 2nd circle of cardboard. The two pieces are about 1/16" in height.
We rolled the crank over the pulled the head and looked.. yes it did make a
slight mark but remember there is no headgasket on here when we did this.
Ok, it did contact the cardboard but that was with a 1/16" additional height so
we pulled the head off again and put the headgasket back on and put in two new
circles of cardboard and torqued down two nuts to keep the head from being able
to raise up. Turned the motor over..... it didn't hit! This
leaves us about 1/16" safety margin so if that will cause interference at high
rpms we will know that after we run it and rev it up and check that to the
compression we will check before the engine is started and then again when it
is.
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spring retainer after grinding
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before grinding, the keepers were not exposed
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lash cap needed
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front to back alignment isn't very good, the lash cap helps out here allot
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the big cam ~.343 x 1.4 rocker ratio = .480 lift
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TimCs I.D. for the big cam
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Schneider 284 cam, .311 x 1.4 = .435 lift
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TimC launch banshee cam, the one from the 261hp cyno run 288 on exhaust, but 290 on intake? .403/.406
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plenty of clearance now
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how many Elephants in a Herd?
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5/22/6
Seems nuts to take apart a perfectly good engine doesn't it? Well
that's part of it. We pulled the head today to swap with the truck since
that head is ported and swapped the 16G for a 19C.
This didn't seem to have any limitations with the little turbo he had, the
16G ran mostly at 20psi but saw a few 25s and the head studs were torqued to
100ftlbs and we had used a Fel-pro head gasket.
The turbo he had started with was a used 16G and it appears the rear oil seal
is on the way out and there is some gooey black crap on the underside. So
before it's reused it will get a rebuild kit so it won't eat up any housings.
The poor thing did have the piss ran out of it, lol. Spark plugs look fine
and so are the cylinder walls but N A S T Y crud on the piston tops that can
only be from that tank of race gas we had used last time at the track. It
ruined a set of spark plugs and these below are the new ones. Won't be
using any of that stuff again, it's also all over the old valves -yech.



The Fel-pro gasket did have copper spray applied to it, you can see the
residue on the deck surface above. The new gasket is an Ajusa metal shim
from TEP. The way we remove and clean sealing surfaces is with an angle
grinder and a 3M Rolock bristle disc. Same way you'll see the guys at your
local Mopar dealer. We actually saw this the other day in a newsletter at
the local dealer when Kurt was ordering new clips for his grill and cowl trim
and I said, "hey that's the way we do it too".


We had the header flange surfaced since we were in a hurry to put it on in
the beginning and didn't although it didn't leak it was in need. The 19C
cartridge was painted and we put on the swivel foot rocker adjusting screws and
tried out that high lift cam..... more on that later but for the short version
-it wasn't in there but for about an hour. We used lash caps with that cam
because the swivels didn't have enough range when the valve was closed but after
the motor was run they were fine so we removed them, and gladly so, they were SO
DAMN LOUD. There is no provision to oil them and we felt enough oil would
seep under them that it would be ok. They are 8mm caps same size as the
valve but there just wasn't enough oil for them and 2 actually stuck on the
valve tip and had to be pulled off with pliers. These are made for VW air
cooled engines and I'm guessing that they aren't made to use with 100lb valve
springs either. There is obvious wear on the underside of some of the
caps. The cam we were trying had that .480 lift and we ended up with
about 1/8" clearance between the piston as it was chasing the valve closed so we
were well within safety limits there so we left it in the head and bolted it all
down. Started up the can and the stock ECU was not able to cope -the idle
motor went crazy and couldn't keep the car idling it would run from 350-400rpms
then up to 2000rpms I'm guessing mostly from all the unburned fuel the valves
were sucking in and even though the car drove fine and rev'd nice it was like
having a ball and chain tied to your legs-the car had no power. We are
keeping the cams for when we do go mpi and can control what's going on but
that's a horrible cam for a stock fuel system. We pulled the big cam out
and put in a Schneider 284 and the match with that cam and the ported head and
the 1mm oversized valves is a 100% improvement over the non-ported head with the
small 16G. So now with the 19C and the 284H cam at 60mph highway -10, idle
-16. If anyone is running a
mechanical valve train, you should try these swivel feet; they are so quiet.
Local VW shop sells them for about 35.00 with the sales tax. I have tried
the feet with both Schneider and stock springs, they work better with stock
springs... Oiling needed for the heavy ones. Perhaps tiny holes
drilled in the cam tower caps to spray them would do the trick. -that's
another mod we'll do later.
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sad to tear apart this motor, it was a great combo but now that the motor is broken in it's time to continue
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the old 16g, this was a used turbo I got from a dsm'er that was upgrading
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new head being torqued down
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here's the 19C that's going in
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Kurt did port the gasket and header to match the head porting. We took a paper impression of the head then cut it out and matched the header to that
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freshly painted cartridge so those that have seen under the hood before won't be able to tell anything has been changed, except WE know it has been :)
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see, looks the same to me doesn't it to you?
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swivel rocker adjusting screws over lash caps, lash caps later removed from the head
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