Head: cam


5/19/6

In the beginning, when this head was purchased it was supposed to be on Kurt's car engine but then the car that was started was halted and the truck began.  That car is still here it's just an empty shell, literally!  The truck project began and when it was time to make a decision about the cylinder head this head was put on the truck engine.  Then 6 months later Kurt wanted a car again......  ok back up to winter '05 -before the truck.  Kurt was talking with TimC about a cam he wanted for his car, it was to have some pretty high lift.  Tim said it would have to idle pretty high and they discussed some more details and after a few more calls and several weeks... the cam was made.  Initially we wanted a fwd blank ( with the stub on the rear not cut off, that's back when we were talking about using a dsm crank angle sensor on the rear of the head to use a dsm "link" ecu for mpi and wanted the stub to have a slot cut to fit that sensor but that was all scrapped ) but that cam was made and the stub got cut off by accident by the cam grinder.  Hummmm, ok he still wanted the fwd cam so Tim had another one ground and I said I'd take the one that the tail stub was cut off ( meaning it was now from what most people see when they look at a g54b cam ) so it was now for rwd and he didn't think anyone would want a cam with that extreme lift.  Now we just pulled the head off the truck motor yesterday and fit the rwd cam ( as now the fwd dsm "link" computer is a dead idea- and probably rightly so ) in to see what it would do and if there would be any clearance issues etc.  To make the cam work the stock adjuster were not going to cut it.  There were only a few threads holding the locking nut in place and that wasn't going to be good enough.  We already had the lash caps on last fall since some said the stainless valves would mushroom but still when you see that little stub of a screw mashing and sliding around on that cap it just doesn't look very good.  The lash caps I got were from a VW supply store -old VWs use 8mm dia. valves which is also the diameter of a g54b valve.  The caps fit great but then we learned they weren't even necessary but left them on there anyway.  VWs use some different valve train parts..... they have a rocker adjuster screw that has a pivot foot when they use stainless valves and had been used decades before in Porsche engines.  I've seen some that have a ball foot and some with the butt end of a screw like our motors have.  Several months ago, I was talking on the telephone to an ebay seller I know that lives in Australia about getting some more Magna distributors (like we are using in the truck for the mpi conversion) and we talked about Magna heads and some other gossip and he told me he had a site started and found a guy that lives in New York to be a broker of sorts for his parts.  He told me the site link and said to look at his "elephant feet"  I said "what?"  Well he said what they were and they were quiet and lasted much longer and didn't need frequent adjusting like the stock rocker screws.  His site name is http://www.partstuff.com/ and he also had those rocker feet on ebay but he was asking 200.00 for a set, wow!  I searched google and found elephant feet were used on Porsche engines.... and I found them, there are some at this link for sale:  http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1411     OK, I wanted some of those but like YESTERDAY to get this cam to work better so it could go on the car.  I stopped at a place about 30min. from me -here's their website:  http://www.buggyworks.org/   I walked in there today, I had never stopped at this place so I had no idea what was there, "you heard of something called an Elephants foot?"  she pointed over down one row and said, "yes we have some, there are a few different ones right over there".  That just made my day :)  There were three different types, two were the same, BUGWORKS I think was the brand, one was a little longer than the other but both had an open hollow foot.  I didn't think those would do the trick and there was one other and it was the solid foot and it was a bit longer and that's exactly what I needed.  Someone had brought them back and they wouldn't fit or something and she didn't have the package and said she could get more. That  brand was EMPI or something like that.  Got those home today and a dial indicator that has more travel than the one I had because we couldn't get the lift measurement yesterday but got it tonight.  It's right where Kurt asked Tim to make it -the lift is .343 making that .480 if used with the stock 1.4 ratio rocker arms.  The duration is supposed to be around 300 or a little more.  Now don't go jumping to conclusions about that 569rwhp car in California because we have had these two cams for at least 8 months and I knew of those Elephant feet way back last winter so don't think we copied something but I think it's nice to know that these parts will work too.  It's great that someone has already ran a cam very similar to this one and is using those Elephant feet adjusters.  I don't know how it's all going to work out but from what I mocked up this evening and checked the setup, there is .25mm clearance under the spring retainer to the top of the oil seal.  This in only on number one intake I haven't checked the rest but we will.  Sure don't want oil being mashed into the crack around the seal and end up with a smoke machine.  I think we'll grind a tiny bit off the underside of each retainer and test fit every one.  That gives Kurt something to do tomorrow, lol.  Here's the pics.

click to enlarge

left to right: the big cam, TimC low torque cam, and a schneider 284

left to right: big one, low torque (launch the banshee) and the Schneider 284

checking the lift

this dial indicator doesn't have enough range to measure the big cam

this is the TimC low end torque cam, this was the cam that was in the car in the 261hp dyno run

HD springs, lash caps and stock adjusters

not near enough threads holding that lock nut

bottom is the 1mm os valve with the big cam and the top is a stock head

Kurts porting, this is the head that was on the truck -pics of it are in that gallery too

if this part number helps you locate these great!

foot over a lash cap=good contact

foot Vs stock adjuster

this is the lift of the big cam, .343 then we are using stock rockers of 1.4 ratio so x 1.4 = .480 lift

intake and exhaust are the same

valve in full open position using lash cap

foot contact in open position without lash cap, foot has POOR contact with valve, it doesn't contact fully-foot doesn't pivot enough -won't work!

valve open, no lash cap

valve in open position using lash cap, full contact with foot

using foot and lash cap, valve full open. seal needs more clearance

clearance from spring retainer to seal -a film of oil on the stem would probably get into the seal and you'd have a smoker motor!

need to shave these down for increased seal clearance

length foot vs stock

this is the 1mm OS valve and stock retainer and keepers

this is more than adequate clearance from the keepers to the lash cap

this is a stock valve seat ground out to use the 1mm OS valves. remember this is on a Marnel head (NOT the india version)

valve seals at the outer most limit of the seat

the valves open just on the + side of one half inch

valves closed, Kurt smoothed out the area around the spark plug, an unported head with identical valves/seats in his engine gallery

this is the valve train oiling port, it's at the front of the head on the right side and is just inside that head bolt/stud hole

Marnel drills the oiling port in one pass, stock "T" casting heads do to unless you have a plug in the side, then they drilled from the top & the side


5/20/6

We did tear the head down today, ended up grinding about 1/16" off the lower surface of the spring retainers to get some additional clearance for the seals.  Then we checked the cams again for the lift, reassembled and test fit on a stock engine for valve clearance.  YES we knew all along this would make for an interference head but that's the price to pay to get that lift.  We did however find that the valves will NOT hit the pistons unless the timing chain jumps or the cam dowel snaps.  To check and see if the valves were going to hit the pistons tops from the high lift under correct timing we removed the headgasket and placed the head on the deck and used no fasteners -it was just laying there.  Turned the crankshaft by hand, watched the rockers and then looked, listened and felt the head at the studs while the crank turned to see if it moved at all.  It didn't.  To see if there was any we couldn't feel, we cut out a cardboard circle, placed that on to number one piston and turned the crank again, pulled the head off and looked -there appeared to be one tiny mark left but we weren't sure so we added a 2nd circle of cardboard.  The two pieces are about 1/16" in height.  We rolled the crank over the pulled the head and looked.. yes it did make a slight mark but remember there is no headgasket on here when we did this.  Ok, it did contact the cardboard but that was with a 1/16" additional height so we pulled the head off again and put the headgasket back on and put in two new circles of cardboard and torqued down two nuts to keep the head from being able to raise up.  Turned the motor over..... it didn't hit!   This leaves us about 1/16" safety margin so if that will cause interference at high rpms we will know that after we run it and rev it up and check that to the compression we will check before the engine is started and then again when it is. 

spring retainer after grinding

before grinding, the keepers were not exposed

lash cap needed

front to back alignment isn't very good, the lash cap helps out here allot

the big cam ~.343 x 1.4 rocker ratio = .480 lift

TimCs I.D. for the big cam

Schneider 284 cam, .311 x 1.4 = .435 lift

TimC launch banshee cam, the one from the 261hp cyno run 288 on exhaust, but 290 on intake? .403/.406

plenty of clearance now

how many Elephants in a Herd?

5/22/6

Seems nuts to take apart a perfectly good engine doesn't it?  Well that's part of it.  We pulled the head today to swap with the truck since that head is ported and swapped the 16G for a 19C.

This didn't seem to have any limitations with the little turbo he had, the 16G ran mostly at 20psi but saw a few 25s and the head studs were torqued to 100ftlbs and we had used a Fel-pro head gasket. 

The turbo he had started with was a used 16G and it appears the rear oil seal is on the way out and there is some gooey black crap on the underside.  So before it's reused it will get a rebuild kit so it won't eat up any housings.  The poor thing did have the piss ran out of it, lol.  Spark plugs look fine and so are the cylinder walls but N A S T Y crud on the piston tops that can only be from that tank of race gas we had used last time at the track.  It ruined a set of spark plugs and these below are the new ones.  Won't be using any of that stuff again, it's also all over the old valves -yech.

The Fel-pro gasket did have copper spray applied to it, you can see the residue on the deck surface above.  The new gasket is an Ajusa metal shim from TEP.  The way we remove and clean sealing surfaces is with an angle grinder and a 3M Rolock bristle disc.  Same way you'll see the guys at your local Mopar dealer.  We actually saw this the other day in a newsletter at the local dealer when Kurt was ordering new clips for his grill and cowl trim and I said, "hey that's the way we do it too".   

We had the header flange surfaced since we were in a hurry to put it on in the beginning and didn't although it didn't leak it was in need.  The 19C cartridge was painted and we put on the swivel foot rocker adjusting screws and tried out that high lift cam..... more on that later but for the short version -it wasn't in there but for about an hour.  We used lash caps with that cam because the swivels didn't have enough range when the valve was closed but after the motor was run they were fine so we removed them, and gladly so, they were SO DAMN LOUD.  There is no provision to oil them and we felt enough oil would seep under them that it would be ok.  They are 8mm caps same size as the valve but there just wasn't enough oil for them and 2 actually stuck on the valve tip and had to be pulled off with pliers.  These are made for VW air cooled engines and I'm guessing that they aren't made to use with 100lb valve springs either.  There is obvious wear on the underside of some of the caps.  The cam we were trying had that .480 lift and we ended up with about 1/8" clearance between the piston as it was chasing the valve closed so we were well within safety limits there so we left it in the head and bolted it all down.  Started up the can and the stock ECU was not able to cope -the idle motor went crazy and couldn't keep the car idling it would run from 350-400rpms then up to 2000rpms I'm guessing mostly from all the unburned fuel the valves were sucking in and even though the car drove fine and rev'd nice it was like having a ball and chain tied to your legs-the car had no power.  We are keeping the cams for when we do go mpi and can control what's going on but that's a horrible cam for a stock fuel system.  We pulled the big cam out and put in a Schneider 284 and the match with that cam and the ported head and the 1mm oversized valves is a 100% improvement over the non-ported head with the small 16G.  So now with the 19C and the 284H cam at 60mph highway -10, idle -16.  If anyone is running a mechanical valve train, you should try these swivel feet; they are so quiet.  Local VW shop sells them for about 35.00 with the sales tax.  I have tried the feet with both Schneider and stock springs, they work better with stock springs...  Oiling needed for the heavy ones.  Perhaps tiny holes drilled in the cam tower caps to spray them would do the trick.  -that's another mod we'll do later. 

sad to tear apart this motor, it was a great combo but now that the motor is broken in it's time to continue

the old 16g, this was a used turbo I got from a dsm'er that was upgrading

new head being torqued down

here's the 19C that's going in

Kurt did port the gasket and header to match the head porting. We took a paper impression of the head then cut it out and matched the header to that

freshly painted cartridge so those that have seen under the hood before won't be able to tell anything has been changed, except WE know it has been :)

see, looks the same to me doesn't it to you?

swivel rocker adjusting screws over lash caps, lash caps later removed from the head

 

 

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