Crankcase Vacuum Pump
Some things on this page yet untested here, the electric and mechanical pumps most can't see crankcase oil they will fail. Turbo inlet suction is easier and less money and each should be filtered to eliminate as much oil as possible if not all. PCV valve -even though it allows a smaller volume of crankcase pressure to exit the valve cover it too could be routed through a smaller filter. See Brandons car for how a larger separator was used without a pump.
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or if assembled with additional parts or modified could function as a check valve
Electric Crankcase Vacuum Pumps
Crankcase evac. pump from 96+ Ford Cobra part #F6ZE-9A486-DC
Mounting bracket #F6ZZ-98450-AD for above pump
This is a view from the underside
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1134245,parttype,4920
MOTORCRAFT Part # CX1567 {#F6ZZ9A486DA}
F6ZE-9A486DA; 32 Valves Per Engine
Above is the photo Rockauto used for the Cobra pump
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1188121,parttype,4920
MOTORCRAFT Part # CX1581 {#F6OZ9A486AA}
F5OE-9A486AA,AB
below is the part as shown by Rockauto for a lincoln
(don't know what the differences are if any other than physical)
Here's the Motorcraft (there is a borg warner logo on the rubber boot cover for the motor) Cobra pump opened up
blade tips
air enters the top cover, passes through a foam filter then enters a lower housing
after passing into the lower housing the tips of the blades pass one machined section of the main housing that causes them to pull in the air
you can see the path the air takes around the lower housing to the exit port
This pump above pulls just a bit over 30 inches of water
these electric pumps are not meant for wet service, meaning some type of plumbing/filter setup will be needed
Measuring and Filtering
Comparison to a mechanical gauge a digital manometer can shown different units:
Control for the Ford pump w/Hobbs switch (+ MAP pressure) will prolong pump life since its purpose is to provide a vacuum source when the intake is only under + boost pressure.
Moroso Crankcase Evac Kit
This kit has two of the above check valves and pipes to weld to a header(s) for these and 2 oil separators for placement in the valve covers of a V-8.
The breathers have a metal mesh and media filter and we be used upside down for a pre-filter to the oil/air separator because the vacuum pump can not see any liquid. Same breather used for a pre-filter on Brandons car.
Many different oil separators available, this is from a diesel Range Rover.
Dirty air enters the side from the port with the o-ring seal (this port just happens to seal very well with 3/4" copper pipe) then swirls about the center and goes up and out the exit port on the top, drain in the bottom.
The drain back to the return will need a check valve to allow the vacuum pump to function then when the pump is off (when no boost is present in the intake manifold) the oil will drain back into the pan.
http://www.cfpfilters.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/provent200.html
Mechanical Ford Racing Vacuum Pump instructions:
http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-9486-A460.pdf
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MOR%2D64885&N=700+115&autoview=sku
If you go with this belt drive pump and use the a/c pulley you'll need a pulley for the pump about 6" diameter to keep the rpms on that pump below 5000rpms as stated in the Ford instructions. If you go with the electric pump you may control that with pressure switches. A vacuum relief valve to prevent excess vacuum being drawn on the crankcase would be a safely valve to prevent the oil pump from failing to pick up the oil and now pull out gaskets. If you are using an aftermarket fuel controller make certain that it cuts fuel/ignition on decel. Both pumps are going to be tested. This mechanical pump will have a much larger relief valve than shown above. This Ford vacuum pump is rated to 5000rpms so either a small pulley will have to attach to the front of this one or a 6"+ pulley will have to go on the pump to use the existing a/c crank pulley. Large fitting on the front of the pump is the inlet, the smaller rear port is the exit. Most of these pumps can not see any oil or the seals will fail. Some can be modified for wet service.
The green foam is to represent a 6.5" diameter pulley and shown only to see how it fits with the distributor and intake manifold. You could make a bracket to hold the pump and use the same idle pulley the A/C compressor used or put the pump in a bracket that allows for belt adjustment.
Old turbo drain going into the upper side of timing cover.
Removed the plug from what would be the dipstick location if the block was used in fwd application.
Tapped for barb to be used as the pressure sensing point and the vacuum relief valve.
The lower passage isn't as fully exposed if you fit a crank scraper.
There is webbing in the back of the block at #3 & #4 main caps that when left and a crank scraper used along with some extra baffles will help keep the oil in the sump but remember to not block oil from getting to the pick up tube when trying to keep it there.
