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1988 Conquest

still no oil......

RRFPR: Boost pressure to the regulator is held back by a solenoid. An adjustable pressure sensitive switch controls when the boost is allowed to let the regulator raise the fuel pressure by energizing that solenoid. At the same time the solenoid is energized, that also activates a cold start valve fit in the OVCP just before the throttlebody. You can see that cold start valve in the first picture at the top of the page. This was set up to allow the boost pressure to not go through to the regulator until 10psi of boost pressure. When the boost gets to 25psi the cold start valve is opened. He set this up so when in 4th gear starting at 1500rpms for his dyno run he could go to 6500rpms.

before the header wrap

at the beginning

after wash

Engine, assembly up of this is here

OS Stainless Valve

Jet Valve Elimination Kit and the new longer oil pan bolts & washers

Valve adj. screws with foot, oil passage drilled, fed from hydraulic rocker shafts

intake rockers arm needed hole drilled at an angle, exhaust arms did not, hole inside the arm to line up with the slot in the rocker shaft

vid file > HERE < of the feet and the oil feeding while cranking

These scraper plates do not fit at all and even though this is their "new" one it fits no better than the first one. There is still an issue with one of the arms for the oil pickup tube, there needs to be add'l clearance in a few spots. The orange marks are so I know where to enlarge the holes so the bolts will go in and its not all in one direction either this is actually worse than the old one.

This is after the 4 pins were fitted.

These pins are to keep the plate from being able to slip. Bolts the plate down where you want it then drill the holes. Use the size bit the pkg. says then tap them in with a hammer. Don't let metal shavings into the motor cover it up with towels or plastic and tape the edges.

3 are on the intake side and 1 on the other. There is a flange cast into the block down the intake side and only a small flange on the exhaust side is why I picked those locations for the pins.

There is still the oil pan to fit over this and two gaskets. The front pickup tube arm now fits without grinding/filing.

Still needs a washer but the nut will pull it down for the rear pickup tube arm. After the pins are in, check again for clearances everywhere. This is too close it touches and if the crank moves any forward you'll be eating metal so allow for that.

After you fit the plate, then make oversized holes for the pins so you can easily remove the oil pan. The pins are in the plate and block no reason to have them fit tight on the pan. Fit the pan and make sure all the bolt holes line up. There is a plastic bag over the motor because this is a dirty pan with metal shavings in it from opening up the new passages in the sides.

The clearances are much greater than the max. allowed runout of the wheel.

The lower gasket in contact with the block is cork, the one on the pan side is paper.

A stock turbo cartridge drain tube was cut off and welded to the pan. There will be a hose from the cartridge to this tube that fits between the power steering pump mount and the clip to hold the connector for the knock sensor. The oil draining from the turbo won't have to run down the inside of the timing cover now.

Extra baffle added to the plate

Here's a vid. file of how the crank moves past the scraper openings.

Move your mouse over it to play or click HERE

Some modification to this Fidanza wheel is being done. The stock flywheel bolts were replaced with ARP bolts and the holes in the wheel were fitted with sleeves for full contact with the bolt shank. The stock bolts have no shank its all threaded. The holes in the wheel are 1/2" and the shank on the ARP bolts is smaller. The dowel was enlarged to 10mm and a second pin was put in 180 degrees away from the original pin location to keep the wheel in balance and provide add'l holding. Here's the bolts, they are from a Toyota engine and are the same thread, pitch and length as the stock bolt.

See all about how the dowel pin was changed HERE and why you should do this.

ACT heavy duty plate/street disc. Using this clutch with a Fidanza will increase the torque holding rating.

Replaced clutch master and slave cylinders. See how the bracket on the master is worn out?

The play in your clutch comes from more than one source, there is the pedal as it pivots on the shaft, the clearance from the pin where the pedal attaches to that bracket on the master and the rod in the master in contact with the piston. You can feel the rod and tell when it in contact with the piston not just hanging in the boot. You can adjust the free play when holding the rod in your fingers and get that to about .5" pedal movement with the rod in contact with the piston in the master. Too much play, worn parts and used clutch makes for a tranny that shifts like crap.

The old part on the right below. You can see evidence of fluid leaking out of the back of the master. Look at your firewall for wrinkled paint, brake fluid eats paint so you know something isn't right.

The tranny was flushed out with kerosene blown through a parts wasn't gun and compressed air. New front and real oil seals installed then internals were splashed with some Royal Purple and the pan put back on. It was filled through the shifter opening. He used 75w-90 Royal Purple.

Throw-out bearing retainers are just wire clips.

New back-up switch. If your back-up lights aren't working, maybe someone had that switch out and lost the steel ball that should be inserted under the switch.

New solid U-joints. See the name on the seal?

Info: when they added an intercooler for the 85.5 model, they upgraded the tranny in several ways. The older non-intercooled trannys have a thicker throw-out bearing and a longer rod on the slave. One of those many changes was a thicker plate in the front and this moved the pivot ball for the fork forward so that rod and throwout bearing were both made 5mm thinner. You CAN NOT mix and match parts you have to use both short parts for the intercooled trannys.

The slave cylinders are the same for all years only the rod is different. If you can buy an 84 slave cylinder for half the cost of an 89 then buy it and use your old shorter rod. At rest both throw-out bearings will be in contact with the clutch plate fingers. You can see how mixing the parts will cause problems because the fork and pivot ball did not change.

You can see the difference in the two parts below.

Slave cylinder internals. Those are both c/s slave parts just one old and the other new. A Raider used a different part for #16. We removed both part #15 and #16 on this car. Part #16 is a restrictor of sorts acting on the tip of the banjo bolt where the fluid enters then isn't allowed to escape as quick as it could if that part was left in so we deleted them. Seems to be working fine you may want to experiment with this yourself. I haven't seen the Raider part #16 to see the difference in the size of that restrictor opening.

A Conquest/Starion is type 24, the parts in question:

MD603469 & MD603468

The old hole in the timing cover for the stock turbo drain is going to be a 2nd spot to vent crankcase pressures from.

The larger diameter hoses to the separator were from a washing machine drain hose, one end had the bend molded into it already so it won't kink, there is a copper tube behind the header heat shield, the copper fittings are 1/2 and 3/4", the openings on the separator are for 1" hose but the hose is only 3/4" (it can be stretched a bit) The fittings are just taped up shown here, they will be brazed -solder joints here would likely melt and they would fall apart but the tape is still holding....

Stock fwd dipstick hole tapped and has a port for a pressure gauge that is inside the car and a port for a filtered adjustable vacuum relief valve.

A few thousand miles and boost pressures now up to ~27-29psi w/S16G after a few hundred at stock levels there has been no oil come through to the upper portion of the front breather and there is oil in the lower portion as I suspected there to be since there is no baffle in the timing cover where it connects

Two ports below: left is the elbow into the under side of the breather, right is from the timing cover. these two ports connected to each other side by side with a hose, the oil sucked into the breather self drains as you can see.

Below left is the front side and the right is the rear, this is both ends of a tube running along side the valve cover coming from the rear valve cover port, it is DRY

below left hose going into the separator is DRY, separator filter is dry, drain hose has a check valve in it that allows oil when accumulated to self drain but no crankcase pressure or oil can come up that drain

When at idle, cruise or boost there is always a negative pressure in the crankcase. When any hose is unhooked the pressure goes to zero, when under boost it goes much more negative and the higher the boost the more negative the pressure.

Increased hose size and using a 2nd connection to the separator and the flow rate from the crankcase is reduced to the point there is no oil at all from the rear valve cover port.

Parts to connect this are hose, copper tubing and an off the shelf cheap Chevy valve cover breather tied into a larger separator with a check valve in the drain. This is just an enlarged version of the stock system with the check valve in the drain hose.

Ya Kurt you were right, I couldn't resist painting the reinforcement plate.

Some pics of the throttlebody, surfaces smoothed out from a little table top belt/disc sander.

New OEM fuel pump and the high pressure line changed to 3/8" Aeroquip hose/AN fittings. Tap original fuel inlet then grind off ears -leave the ears on until you are done with the tap it will keep it from turning in the vise.

vid file of the ISC motor moving click HERE of move your mouse over that picture

Put a light coat of oil on these o-rings.

Remove and clean the bypass valve for the oil cooler and make sure it moves as its supposed to.

When you install the filter adapter, tighten up the tube first.

Now, you see that collar isn't touching the block, put a wedge in there then tighten the nut so you don't bend that arm or break it off.

This is how the throttlecable was reversed and adj. drill out the two punch marks and put apart, rotate and repunch.

Its about to go in....

Inverted header with section added for external WG for later addition

TurboX coated

1/8"x2" fiberglass wrap

Reversed throttlebody, more on that HERE

The water path under the intake needs to remain &

by luck, there is a molded hose that works.

Cut off the first part, the U portion goes over the runner then goes below the back runners and ties into the bypass tube.

Same hose can be used without the reversed throttlebody but the JetValve passage tube is in the way and the EGR tube could be cut out too and both were.

These are the numbers of the wider belts, the older models with the lower amp alternators used the skinny belt and those will/can slip and squeak (the belts that are 15xxx numbers are the narrow ones)